Right now I'm at the Seoul airport on a really long layover and found a free (yes free!) Internet station at the transit lounge. Thought I'd write down some thoughts from my recent trip to Thailand as I'm en route to Fiji. I have to say I miss the quiet, simple, slow pace of the village and the warmth and friendliness of Fijians.

So many things are going through my head. I've been composing this e-mail for the past four days or so so hopefully I can get it all down. I guess I'll start with negatives: I am so not a big city person. I know that, yet I keep ending up in these big old places that turn me off. Like most big cities, Bangkok smells. Bad. I know, I know, given the lack of waste/sewage/water disposal, this should be expected. But it still surprises me (and given that people spray after they use the toilet and use t.p. to dry with, then throw that in a wastebin that sits around all day, the smell compounds). I'm surprised, also, at how unfriendly everyone is. And how expensive things have gotten. Every guidebook I read quoted prices far, far less than what they ended up being (Grand Palace: 350 baht, in the books: 300 baht. This palace/park in Phechaburi: quoted price 40 baht. Actual price: 150 baht)

As a disclaimer, I will say that I spent most of my trip in Bangkok, spending two days traveling to areas outside the city. I didn't make it to a National Park, which is why people really go to Thailand. If I ever go again, I'll head right to the woods because that's where I think I belong.

Anyway, Bangkok does have some amazing charms. (I feel like I could write a guidebook!) There are many beautiful, incredible temples filled with fantastic Buddha images. The detail of the architecture is fascinating and the temples shine and sparkle like nothing else. But, the same way that after you've seen a hundred churches in Italy you get a little tired of them, I got a little tired of the temples. Still, the serenity was wonderful in the smaller, less touristy temples.

Here are some highlights:
Day 1: Arrive in Bangkok. Passport control was nuts crazy at 6 am and took forever to get through. Fast forward to 10:30 and I try to order lunch and realize, "It's only 10:30?!? Are you serious??" After lunch I explore the area around my hotel, which is a backpackery area. There are lots of backpackers and food vendors and markets lining the streets. I stumble upon a giant Buddha statue, the first of many.
By 5 pm I'm exhausted and by 9 pm I'm fast asleep until I wake up at 3:30 am.

Day 2: Explore Bangkok properly. Hit the big touristy spots, like the Reclining Buddha, the Grand Palace, the Emerald Buddha (made out of jade... it's actually really tiny!), and some of the more famous temples. I only spend 7 1/2 hours walking around and call it a day when my thighs are chafing so badly i have to walk bowlegged. (This was due to a minor directional error that took me 1 1/2 hours in the wrong direction...) I'm again wiped out by only 9 pm, and this time don't wake up until 4:30. I also do my first survey, a marketing study by folks wanting to open Madame Tussaud's in Bangkok. Basically, I was like, "No, I'm not interested in that and I don't think it really fits here." But after I saw the area (Day 5) where it's going to be, it totally fits.

Day 3: This is when things get really interesting. I visited Ayutthaya, which was the former capital of Thailand until being sacked by the Burmese and then it moved to Bangkok. I rented a bike once there and biked around looking at/photographing old ruins. I visited the elephants (being rehabilitated after abusive trekking use) and got a little terrified of them. The ruins are amazing. I do second survey for some kids at a Vocational College. I make it there and back with no transportation issues- has my traveling luck changed?? But I realize that with the train schedule and lack of transport, I'm unable to make it to the park I wanted to visit. So, I change my plans and decide on another day trip.

Day 4: Day trip #2, to a city called Phetchaburi south of Bangkok. A king had built a summer house there on a hilltop surrounded by monkeys. Plus, the area doesn't have many tourists and is famous for desserts, so I chose it. Well, it started off rough when the ticket was about twice what I expected to pay! I hemmed and hawed then finally went for it and got on the train. I got lost in the city trying to find the bus depot so I could find out when I had to leave and how much it would be. Then it rained, a lot. No umbrella, no raincoat. Uh, oh. I visit a temple then head to this summer home. I see monkeys. Aww, cute monkeys, I think! I head up to the gate and lo and behold, the price is almost four times what my book said. I don't have enough cash on me to cover it and my way home. So I'm bummed, sit down on a bench to think about next option and watch the monkeys. Big daddy monkey slowly makes his way down. I take his picture and then he turns and heads towards me (see FB picture). And he keeps coming. There are warnings that the monkeys are aggressive, but I was taking my chance because I didn'th ave any sweet things they might want. And he keeps coming. I throw all my stuff in my bag and pretty much run away, with him on my heels. I get down far enough away then go to an overlook and then decide to explore the other direction of this mountain, where I see pretty 'chedis.' I discover the pretty and old thigns are actually a cemetary, inhabited by a gazillion monkeys swinging in trees and climbing things and eating things. I take some pictures, mind my business, look at the cityscape. Then I hear the call to arms. They start making noises. Then they start gathering. A gang (flock? herd? gaggle? family?) start following me. I speed up. They speed up. I'm running, they're running. They're squawking. I'm yelling, No no no don't hurt me i don't mean any harm! Then I encounter the feral big nasty dogs. Good news: they scare away the monkeys. Bad news: they scare away me. I'm literally at a fast paced run down a slippery brick path. I'm trembling when I reach the bottom, where the monkeys are much nicer and nothing's nipping at my heels. Needless to say, this is when Thailand starts to get the better of me and I want out. I make it back, enjoy a nice dinner (and a Changa beer), and head off to bed after starting Gone With the Wind.

Day 5: Okay, now I'm a little worn down. I decide to explore another part of Bangkok, Siam Square area. This is where all the malls are. This is a good day. I wander around, get frightened by all the noise and commotion of a loud Asian mall, and enjoy the Bangkok Arts and cultural Center. This is a gem, and I highly recommend it! It's free, the bathrooms are free (this is hard to find!), it has A/C, and some really, really cool exhibits. People rent or buy a space and do their own installations. The coolest was this young women who does ice cream designs. Giver he a theme/ event/ etc, she comes up with the ice cream flavors and whole package. It was cool. But the malls are overwhelming.

Day 6: Last day! I'd been saving a ticket to go to this palace, which came free with admission to the Grand Palace. It's near my hotel and sounded really neat and quiet and pretty. A perfect leisurely way to end my last morning in the city. I walk down there, full spirited, and find that it's closed. Instead I discover it's the H.M. Queen's birthday, so everything's crazy. It's a holiday. Traffic is a mess (took me about four hours to get to the airport, and transfering about three or four? different buses) and people are EVERYWHERE. Good news: another palace had free admission! It was a nice day, but I got to the airport super early and enjoyed the feeling of going home to Fiji. Now I have this hella long layover in Seoul, and I'm so anxious to be on solid ground for awhile!

Basically, I think Thailand is best experienced with a rented vehicle, group of people, and with either more time, or less time than what I had. But I'm glad I went; fulfilled a long awaited dream.

I have to go now, but I might continue later because I thought many many things about the necessity for urban planning. My biggest complaint of Thailand: it's too auto dependent!!!! Mad crazy traffic and motorbikes and too big cars! I saw 14 lanes of traffic today! It's so not pedestrian friendly at all!!!