Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Bless the Beasts...

“How are you readjusting?”  I am often asked, usually by fellow Returned Peace Corps Volunteers. 

“It’s bearable,” or “I’m managing,” are sometimes my responses.  It’s not awful, and things are much easier now than they were three months ago.

It’s almost six months since I’ve been back in the U.S.  I notice things now about life and culture and what’s important that I never fully noticed before.  I think more deeply about things that before had flashed through my brain.

I’m not astounded by the vast selections of food at grocery stores or the number of cheeses that exist here.  The rushing of the cars only vaguely surprises me and the trains and airplanes sometimes go unnoticed.  I’m getting used to living alone but totally surrounded by people.  Always people are rushing everywhere. 

I am on the verge of becoming the person I always wanted to be.  I set goals for myself and I’ve achieved them.  Now I’m lost.  Like many others in my position- RPCVs and otherwise- I’m almost a young professional.  Yet I still yearn for other things, like a solid group of friends or a romantic partner.  

I am dissatisfied with the place I live and I do not feel competent to hold down a career.  “What is wrong with me?” I wonder.  I take comfort in knowing that I am not alone in my feelings.

But for RPCVs, I think the feelings run so much deeper.  I don’t want to idolize us, but I had read stories from others about readjusting to American life.  It took experiencing it to realize what they meant. 

It’s not that I’m unwell.  My mental clarity is clearer than it’s been in ages.  But I don’t know what I’m doing anymore.  I don’t know anything anymore.  I’ve seen life from a different perspective.  The smallest things are the most important and the biggest things, well, they’re not really so big, after all.
Of course there are the creature comforts I’m glad to have: hot showers, convenience, phones that you can use anytime and anywhere.  But now I think about everything I do, everything I use.  When you live on an island, where does your waste go?  Fiji is by no means a very “undeveloped” country.  Nor is it “developed.”  It lacks two things that countries like China and the U.S. have: space and money.  There is limited land to bury garbage and no money to ship things overseas.  So every material thing is disposed of in what way?  You can watch your bleach or dish soap or laundry soap go from your receptacle out the pipe and into a drain and then into the ocean.  Goodbye, coral.  Goodbye, fish.  Every plastic bag you put your produce in, that your bread comes in, that you toss out after you finish your sandwich or that you get at any store, goes where? 

In no way am I perfect.  I still empty a bin of recyclables into a bigger bin every few weeks.  I still buy things unnecessarily and then wonder what I did that for.  My house is still cluttered with too much stuff.  I love my books.  I’ve owned far too many computers in my lifetime for a person of my age.  Does that really offset the fact that I don’t have a TV or a microwave?  Does my excessive need to reuse every scrap of paper or forgo a car count for anything?

I like to think it does.  At the end of the day, I’m not being naïve and I’m not being narcissistic.  I’m not egotistical.  I was in third grade when I remember reading about endangered whales and greenhouse gases.  I was in fifth grade when we studied the destruction of the rainforest.  I don’t see things as black and white as I did then, but the impact of our actions has finally impacted me.

The glory days of the revolution of science- plastics, medicines, pesticides, chemicals as beauty products- have backfired into unforeseen consequences. 

I was a child in Fiji.  I had nothing, knew no one, and couldn’t communicate clearly.  I had to relearn how to walk, how to sit, how to eat.  If I was mad at my family, I had to deal with it.  There was no escaping.  I relied on people for everything- food, medicine, advice, and help doing the most basic chores.

None of this makes me better than anyone else.  It just gives me a new perspective, a different outlook.  While convenience is great, it’s not as wonderful as it appears.  I rarely eat out anymore.  If I didn’t cook it or it isn’t in a consumable state, I don’t eat.  I lived from the earth in Fiji.  That sounds silly, but it was true.  We went out to get our food every day.  You had to work for what you wanted.  There was no snacking, no coming home at night and opening up the fridge or the phonebook to find food.  Water is a precious resource, not an irreplaceable commodity.  I think about that with every load of laundry I wash and every shower I take.

Bless the beasts and children- when I thought of that, I meant to refer to what the chemicals do to our ecosystem.  The algal blooms from toxic substances dumped in water may look pretty, but they’re deadly.  The bleach we use, the powerful cleaners we like for their efficiency and ability to scrub so much, leaves floating fish and drooping grasses in its wake.  We hear at the same time that we need religion in our politics, or that religion can save us.  But we export individually wrapped junk foods to small island nations and then look critically upon them when the wrappers and sticks and packaging are tossed haphazardly into the ocean.  Where is the religion in that?  Where is the blessing of the beasts- all creatures great and small- in the careless pitching of plastics?  In the tossing of trash?  In the factories polluting gray masses of particles into the air, disguised as progress.  You may laugh at my venture into making my own cosmetics and toiletries, but who said we must succumb to the beauty norms that say we need them?  Do we need pH balanced anti-perspirant/ deodorant?  No.  Who told us we needed to smell like a lilac bush to snag a man?  Do we need shaving cream?  Do we need to shave?  We’re confined into these contrived notions of a Eurocentric beauty.  Don’t get me wrong; I enjoy my People magazines every now and again.  But that’s not sustainable or realistic or even pleasurable.  I’m not being radical, either.  It’s sensible.  It makes sense to know what you are putting in and on your body.  You have to know what you’re breathing in and ingesting.  And you have to think about the full cycle: from inception to use to destruction.  Where does it all go?

Yet I’m torn.  I’m stuck in this grey area of not fully belonging to a place.  Life has moved on in Madison without me.  It’s hard to comprehend, but I have to do it.  Madison and I have grown apart.  This is a place that holds many happy memories, but those are in the past.  I’m not trying to elicit pity; it’s the truth.  If we don’t take advantage of all the truths that we learn, what is the point?

The truth is, time keeps moving.  People keep changing.  We try to move forward.  Sometimes we’re pushed backwards, but we continue on.  I don’t just subtly mean politics I mean people and circumstances.  We can hang on to material possessions, but they’ll fade or break or tarnish.  Pictures will fade or rip or scratch.  Each generation experiences different traditions and skills and styles and places.  We’re not static.  We’re ever changing.  We learn from the past and we cajole in it.  But we have to keep moving forward, even if it means returning to some ideas we’ve let go of, like a return to simplicity.  Like understanding where things go when we’re done with them.  Physical objects, they go nowhere.  Organic objects return to the earth.  People go to our hearts and memories.  My memory is not your memory.  What I hold dear is not what you hold dear.  We have to embrace what is important to each of us.  It makes us human.  It makes us unique.  It connects us.

I’m not callous.  After all this, I’ve learned to accept things.  I’m not pessimistic.  I’m not too idealistic.  I know that our earth is in trouble, and we’re wasting time arguing over evidence and numbers and money and politics.  I know I have opportunities to seize and I’ll take them while I can.

I’m the feminist my mother put on hold and justified with the “I had a choice” argument.  It’s a fine one, really.  I admire her for it.  But I set out to do only four things: graduate college, join the Peace Corps, go to graduate school, and have a partner and kids around age 30.  Check, check, semi check, close.  I was raised with the idea that I can do anything.  I'm doing it.

My thoughts are scattered.  I wanted to comment on readjusting to life after Peace Corps.  It’s a wake up call.  I wouldn’t regret my experience for anything in the world.  Did I miss out on a lot of cool things that happened those two years I was discovering who I really am?  Of course.  Did I miss out on family events and happenings?  Of course.  Does that mean my family doesn’t matter?  No.  Does that mean nothing cool will ever happen again?  No.  I learned a lot of other valuable lessons.  I re-evaluated my values and re-enforced important life tenets. 

I told myself a long time ago not to regret anything.  While I would change things that happened in my life, I can’t feel guilty.  I can’t hang on to regret.  I cannot apologize for needing to find my way in life.  Family matters, of course, but part of being a family means you grow together and develop into more courageous and sensible beings.  I have family in all corners of the world.  From my Fijian family who took me in and made me a part of their family and shared everything with me and taught me an infinite number of lessons to my family in Wisconsin who raised me and has seen me through my entire life to my friends who are like sisters and brothers and cousins to me and who now live from the west coast to east coast.

I titled this “Bless the Beasts.”  When I composed this piece, walking home from work one night, I focused heavily on things and life cycles of things.   I included some quips about religion and environmentalism.  When I sat down to write, my thoughts steered towards family and commitments and regrets.  “I do not regret the things I’ve done but those I did not do.”  I’m sure it’s actually famous, but I remember that quote from Empire Records

I think I wanted to justify my Peace Corps experience.  It was the most powerful thing I’ve ever done in my short life.  It was the most meaningful.  I wouldn’t take it back for anything in the world, not even every Christmas with my family.  Those Christmases wouldn’t mean nearly as much to me now if I hadn’t missed two of them.  I feel insurmountable.  And like I can do anything.  I was challenged, and I succeeded.  I survived.  I made it through those 27 months, through the best and very worst experiences of my entire life.  I learned so much more than I had ever dreamed I could. 

Compounding the readjustment process is the realization that almost everyone my age- mid to late 20’s- is going through the same thing.  Adolescence is hard, of course, but then you enjoy your early 20’s with invincibility and forming life-long bonds only to be catapulted into post-college, pre-marriage/ partnership womanhood.  (I can only speak on behalf of women, my main source of knowledge.)

Am I readjusting?  Slowly.  Slowly.  I’m moving forward, and that’s a good sign.  

(When I saved this document as a Word file, I titled it: "In Defense of Peace Corps."  Comments?)

Monday, September 20, 2010

Back

It's been about six weeks or so since I've been back in the U.S.  I had a really great, wonderful experience and I'm very fortunate to have made it through my 27 months safely and healthily.  I miss Fiji an awful lot, especially the people, both Fijian and American.  It wasn't easy and it wasn't always fun, but I know I'm different now because of the experience.  I would recommend doing this, but I'm a lot more wary now and my views on Peace Corps are also much different now than they were before I left.  I can't believe that the past two years happened!  They seemed to have flown by and everything now is like a dream.

I thank everyone for the support and encouragement, boxes of magazines and chocolates, letters and postcards.  Sometimes it felt like I was all alone and didn't know anyone or anything, and then I'd get a dose of reality when I'd go to town and check my mailbox, both the physical one and the computer ones.  I cannot thank people enough!!

If anyone ever gets a chance to visit Fiji, I highly recommend it.  I was fortunate to have my placement in a country like Fiji, which is truly a tropical getaway. The diving was amazing, the people are wonderful, the weather is heavenly, and the sweets are delightful.  I miss the relaxed, lazy days and conversation, but I'll admit: hot showers are a great, great invention.  Probably the thing I love the most about being back in America.

If anyone ever wants more stories, I'd be happy to give them.  Or answer questions, either about Peace Corps or about Fiji.  I do feel part of an "elite," a small group of us who have had this experience.  Not everyone can say they've done what I've done, and I apologize in advance if it seems like Fiji is the only thing on my mind.  Some days I get confused about where I am, and why certain people aren't here, and why Americans do the things they do, and why the government is the way it is, and how easy and complicated life really is.  It's funny, how easy life is in America but at the same time, it's unbelievably difficult and complicated.  Maybe someday I'll explain that in greater detail.  But for now, I have a bazillion readings to do for tomorrow and Thursday and a thesis proposal to hone.  No rest for the weary.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

aftermath...

Well, the worst is over. Remember how I joked about hoping the roof was still on my house?? When I left Savusavu Wednesday, I immediately saw the effects of Tomas. Town didn't get hit too hard, but as soon as you got out of town, you could see where the storm hit. The road along the ocean was covered in sand and debris. Trees were down the whole way up to K. Death was everywhere in the foliage. Surprisingly, there was very little structural damage, save for a few lost roofs. The wind and salt from the sea killed most breadfruit trees, blew down banana and vudi (like a plantain, the 'big brother' to the banana) and coconut trees, and has basically taken out our main food supply: dalo, cassava, waci (a.k.a. rourou, or dalo leaves), breadfruit, eggplants, bele (a spinach like leafy green)... Everywhere are downed trees. It looks like someone took a 'spray', some kind of weed killer, and aerially sprayed for miles. It was depressing going back to the village, seeing some really, really big trees taken down. But I was definitely glad when I saw how much was intact. Then I got closer to my house.

My house is still there, yes. But the boys had moved everything, everything I own in Fiji, into Tui's house. Half my roof lay in a pile on the ground and in the compounds of four other houses. (I asked Kanu one day, "Who cut down the dridriwai [the leaves my roof is made out of]?" He looked at me and laughed, said, "That's your roof; no one cut it down." The insides were moved, pushed in by the force of the wind. Debris and dirt and leaves littered the ground, the shower, the sinks. It smelled of mold and rot. In short: my house in uninhabitable. And everything I own is now parceled out between three different rooms and everyone else in the village. I guess now is as good a time as any to clean house.

So I moved in my Nana and Maku, in my my sister Leti's old room. The rest of my things are in Tui's room and in Pita's room. (To further complicate things... Pita moved into Tui's house because his house was taken over for the kindergarten, which is now not going to happen either, in the foreseeable future.) Let me back up...

Here is my Fijian family:
-Nana and Maku (short for 'tamaku', which means my father. Half the village calls him this): my parents
-Tui, their son, my brother, who's the same age I am (There is another son who lives in Suva and a daughter, Leti, who got married a few months ago)
-Pita, their nephew, my brother, who's 27-ish and whose parents are deceased
-Kiri, who was married into the family whose husband died last year
-Koro, Kiri's brother-in-law, a perpetual bachelor

We're a family of orphans.

Tui stays in the house next door to Nana and Maku's. This is Maku's uncle's house (I think?), who lives on Viti Levu. Tui has stayed there for years in this three bedroom house. Pita just moved in a few weeks ago. The third bedroom, which would be ideal to be mine, is full of paint, nails, windows, and other things for the building of the church. My belongings share their time between both Pita and Tui's rooms. This is the place I spent the most time anyway, prior to the storm. Really, not too much has changed. I've slept many nights in both the houses, in Leti's room and with the boys as one big slumber party. But, I will admit, it is a change being in the house 24/7. Especially the bathing part. In my bure, I had the shower and toilet right inside with me. Now, everything's outside, across a lake of mud. I shower wearing a sulu wrapped around me, in an open to the sun with no door shower. I feel like I am seriously on my way to being a Fijian woman. My role in the house has changed, too, and no one feels bad having me pull my share (washing dishes, hauling in buckets of water, serving the boys/Maku).

It would be nice, in all honesty, to have my house back. I miss my autonomy. But, this is good too. The problem is, it could take weeks to fix the roof and floor, especially because the storm took out all the dridriwai, so there's no way to fix the roof even if we wanted it done ASAP.

What else... We just got cell service nearby (as close as it can get) yesterday afternoon but landlines are still down... Friday I went with Pita and we collected coconuts, well, I did and he cut what dalo was left. Saturday I went fishing with a couple of the women. That was a trip, because we actually went fishing with our lines out in the reef. We walked out there and had to catch our bait (small prawns) in a stream before heading out to the sea. We walked out across the coral to where the reef drops off and then we cast out our line- literally fishing wire with a hook on the end and a small weight wrapped around an empty bottle- and reel it in again. I have some problems actually 'casting' my line out and usually S had to do it for me. I ended up with about 8 really small little buggers and a horrible sunburn. But it was fun. Uncle Bruce would have been so proud of me! I had to take the hooks out (when they swallow the hooks, we have to bit the top of the end, essentially killing the fish, in order to pull it out) and I even de-scaled and gutted them!!!!! Imagine... then I went to choir practice and drank grog until 2:30 am. And then I got sick. Now I'm in town trying to get a whole plethora of things done and it is hot hot hot.

By the way, do I think it was necessary to be in town during the cyclone? No. The guys keep telling me all the stories from their side- how they played rugby Monday morning, drank grog every night, talked about how I should be there experiencing this with them... all I could say was, "I wanted to be there!!!!!"