Friday, October 23, 2009

Extreme Stationary

Well, I'm back and... I'm sick again! Yay! This time it's really bad. I have a head cold again and I've been coughing so much I lost my voice. That, in addition to the fact that the school bazaar just ended. It started Wednesday and my last day was yesterday, but I think some people are still going. Different villages sent up a stall and sell food and other stuff. Each stall/ mataqali (different families) raise money for the school. There is also a really big 7's rugby tournament. Our team, Pusi loa (black cats, but yes, pusi is the same as pussy), was boys from three different villages nearby and they had two teams. They made it to the semi-finals but lost. Unfortunately, it's been really busy in the village and having a wedding Wednesday didn't help anything. (weddings mean busy-ness and lots o' grog drinking)

Ah, the wedding. This was my brother's wedding, which was supposed to be on Tuesday. Then it changed the day before. Why, you ask. Well, I don't really know. But guess who was the bridesmaid/maid of honor?!? Yup, me. I had about 20 minutes notice. Really all it meant was that I wore the masi cloth, had sandalwood in my hair, stood next to the bride, and had to shake a bajillion hands. And gets lots of kisses. Oh, and I got the best part of the fish at lunch.

But back to the bazaar. Our stall sold different styles of fish (curried, fried parcels, with lolo), turtle, sausage stew, pie, tuna sandwiches (bread with tuna and butter and grated carrot and tomatoes and more butter), and tea. I had to help collect the money, which made for really long, tiring days. At night, there's grog drinking and dancing. It was fun, but would have been more fun had I been healthy. Add to the cold and late nights/early mornings (up before 5 am!!!) and grog drinking, there was a lot of cheering for the boys. It was a riot: all these big old Fijian women with their fancy sulu jaba (the dress/skirt outfit) with a purse on one arm and a big old knife in the other running out into the field screaming and cheering and hugging the ref when they scored.... and jumping up and hitting the roofing iron with your knife... and general merriment. For 15 minutes. No, really, it was a lot of fun. People come from all over for this. I've been hearing about it for almost the entire year I've been in the village. I only danced on Thursday; Friday I was just too tired. People think it's a hoot when I dance and there's nothing like dancing a hill in a space about four feet by four feet with about 100 boys and men watching you and another boy dance.

Speaking of dancing in small spaces... have I mentioned my sure-fire stress relief/ warm up for the bathroom cure? Well, it's like this: first I close my doors, then my curtains. Then I make sure I'm wearing something comfortable and I tie up my hair. Then I grab my iPod and head for my shower, a very very small space. I turn on my iPod, play my 'favorites' playlist, and crank the volume. And then I dance. And dance. I shake it like you wouldn't believe. Every kind of danc emove, I do it in the privacy of my shower. You'd be surprised what you can do in a small space. Definite dance favorites: Brother Love's Traveling Salvation Show, Friends in Low Places, anything Violent Femmes, Debaser (Pixies), M.I.A., Santogold, some Wilco, some Regina Spektor, Everlong (you forget that the Foo Fighters used to know how to rock it out. I forget that sometimes I can headbang. Try it to this song!), Son of a Preacher Man, and of course, Total Eclipse of the Heart! Only thing missing: Like a Prayer. Would you believe it, I didn't put the Immaculate Collection on my iTunes!!!!! Of course, there are others (Chris Brown's Forever, anything from Kate) but those are foolproof songs to make me sweat. And it makes the freezing cold shower water bearable in the cold weather and coldness of my shower. My bathroom is the coolest place in my house- it's really dark and the cement bottom stays cool.

Yeah, it'd be even funnier if you saw it in real life. Before, I used to just stay in half of my bure. But then I got really paranoid and so I've moved into the bathroom, which does have its limitations (like almost falling when it's slippery from water). But it makes me feel rejuvenated. My favorite time is before church on Sundays. it's actually the worst time to do it but no one knows how awful I'm being by breaking the rule of not doing anything physical on a Sunday and it inevitably makes me late for church.

Oh, to explain the title of this post, "Extreme Stationary" is the name of one of the rugby teams. I don't know what it means, because that's not really anything in English, is it? They're an army group, so I think they're thinking along the lines of "stations" or maybe that they're so good they're immovable objects? Hmm...

Unfortunately, I can't post any pictures because I only have a couple from the past week. Wednesday at the wedding my camera decided to stop working. The screen is black. I took some pictures and then it went black and I can't do anything with it. It worked a couple hours later but yesterday the team wanted a picture (we've been talking aobut this picture for six months!!) and my camera didn't work. :( What to do?!? I wanted a picture of my family here, too, because we don't have one of all of us.

hopefully things will slow down in a couple weeks and I can kick these bad things out of my immune system. During Diwali I binged on sweets, then during the bazaar I didn't eat anything healthy and I'm sure that has a lot to do with it, too!

Friday, October 16, 2009

Fiji Day and pictures

Well, things have been busy (at least, they seem busy until talking about them...). I got back from MST last week Monday after a nice week on Viti Levu. And I realized a couple things: 1. we have a really good group of Volunteers! 2. I'm not alone in anything I'm thinking/ feeling about Fiji and Peace Corps, and 3. time is flying. As soon as I got back,though, my bag wasn't delivered on the same plane and I ran around and stressed out for a few hours before actually getting it back in time for the bus. Then, my friend at the post office (the customs official helping me out with all my packages) told me I'd gotten fat! That evening in the village, we had an important meeting about the electricity. Tuesday I went up for the village workday to help cook and weed the yaqona. That's when I saw this little caterpillar who looks like he came directly out of last month's National Geographic article on mimicry! (Those aren't really his eyes)



That evening we had a village meeting. Wednesday my sister and I went up to our yaqona plantation to weed. Then I slept. Friday was Fiji Day, and I was called over to see a family making “vakalolo.” This is a Fijian delicacy made from dalo and cassava, and not often made. After seeing it made, I can understand why. Let me explain...

First, you cook the dalo (taro) and cassava.




Second, you mash it up like this:

and like this:

until you get a gum-like consistency.

Then, you soften up the banana leaves.

Next, you squeeze it into little balls and mix it with lolo (coconut cream), which is mixed heavily with sugar.

Then, if you're selling them like Nau Ma (Grandma Makareta),you packagethem in the leaves like so:

Finally, you eat!

It's really yummy, really rich, and really gooey. It takes a ton of work to mash up the dalo. Which is also why Fijians are so strong- andwhy thefoodtastes that much better once you're finished!

Then I did a bunch of other thingsand that afternoonlearned how to make “Rourou balls.” (I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but rourou is the leaf from the dalo plant, a staple Fijian village food. Some villages call it veisiga, which means “everyday” because of the frequency it is eaten.) I made these specially for a fundraiser the women's group was having. We all cooked something then people gavea donation to eat.

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of this. But here's how these yummy little balls of fried goodness are made: First you cook your rourou. Then you roll it in flour. Then you fry it. Then you cook it in... lolo! Of course, because what else accompanies every main course you eat in a place populated by coconuts?

Oh, and I've been training with some of the young women for the netball team! The school is having a big bazaar-the bash of the year- next week. There are games and grog drinking and eating and buying and selling and lots of money exchanging hands. This is one of those “it takes a village to raise a child” kind of things, because literally everyone participates and apparently the villages just empty out as everyone stays on the school compound for like four days. Sports options in a Fijian village are limited to three: for boys, there is rugby and volleyball. For girls, there is netball and volleyball. So, the boys have a rugby team and the girls have a netball team.

What is netball,you might ask? Well, let me put it like this: it's basketball, but invented by the Brits. It's very polite. It's not very fast. Right along my lines.

Then I got sick Saturday and Sunday. Saturday was the worst, with diarrhea and vomiting and a head cold (sinuses?). Too much lolo! Every meal I had that day had lolo. I just can't take so much of it! Sunday it was better but I haven't had a head cold like that for a long time.

Monday I got to go fishing again with the women! It was hot and sunny when we left, but half way through the weather changed and it rained and the wind picked up but then it got nice again. We were catching “nini” and “dreu” fish, both small fish that travel in schools. We ended up with a decent amount. The way it works is this: there is one woman at each end of the night. We're reallyquite and stealthy, watching for the bigger fish preying on the small ones or for gulls diving to catch them. Then we move in, swiftly but silently. The women spread out and then come together to enclose the net, splashing the water to scare the fish. Then they swim away and get trapped trying to swim through the net. Then we pull them out by their heads. Yes,some heads are lost in this. I got to carry the bag with the fish and help pull them out. The moving stealthily in the ocean thing doesn't really work well for me. It started out just the three of us and then two more people ended up with us. When we had enough- we probably were successful five times- we went ashore, divided them up, and then scaled them. I fried a couple of mine with onions and a couple I threw right into my fire. That's how I'd prefer to eat them.

I've decided to have a Halloween party. Mom sent me decorations last year, but at this time a year ago I didn't have a village orplace to live so I didn't get to use them. This year, though, I will. I hung the decorations and they've been very popular so far. We're going to make masks and I'll give out candy. I'll make a witches brew (hot chocolate, a treat) and something else... dirt cake,maybe? Maybe just cookies, which are always popular. I'm taking ideas for other games to play. I did think about bobbing for apples, but apples are so expensive I don't really want to go that all out.


What else... one of my brothers is getting married on Tuesday.

I'm posting some random pictures from around the village. Some are from the church building, the crew of boys building the church. Kele is the boy with some of our creations we've made drawing. One night it turned into homework help where I worked with his sister on her multiplication and division problems. It has been a long time since I've done those kind of problems. But really, I do use that stuff a lot. I remember being younger and thinking, “When am I ever going to use this?” And I do! And I'm really glad I know it, and my multiplication tables. I just wish I could explain it better. I am definitely not a teacher. I wonder at what age we learned things like multiplication tables and mental math. I think I'm going to make some flashcards- Morgan, I'm kicking myself that I didn't take you up when you offered to send me flashcards! They sure would come in handy.

I know I said I didn't really want anything, but I do have a few specific things for my wish list:
-latex house or acrylic paints (for a world map project at the school)
-white ankle athletic socks
-gum
-a frisbee (200 gm)
-Clif bars
-any other food items you might want to send... baking things, condiments, sauces, seasonings...


Garden update! Mom, I have the same things happening with my tomatoes as happened with yours! I talked to another PCV about it and he said it's this tomato rot disease and some people even grow their tomatoes upside down to prevent it. It's common, I guess. Overwatering might have something to do with it, he said. But, my toms are finally growing and my carrots are close. The cabbage has been eaten by moths.

My Birkenstocks, after nine faithful years and millions of miles, have finally been lost to Fiji. They were a good shoe, very good shoe.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Just got back from spending time in Suva and Nadi. It's such a different world on the other island! I got to eat real Indian food (soooooo delicious!) and learn about a lot of things I could still do in/with the village. We have ten months to go, which seems like a lot but really it will go by quickly (maybe?). I have a lot to look forward to the next couple of months.

I wish I had something new to share about Fiji/ village life, but I don't. Sorry! It's finally warming up, so that's exciting. I field all questions, however!